It is without doubt the most romantic place in which to stay in Quito, Ecuador - and that's not just because there are huge tubs of roses at every turn (easily arranged when 25 stems cost just US$2) or because you're likely to feel a little breathless on arrival (to be expected at 2,800 metres above sea level). This 1920s, three-storey, 31-room Renaissance-inspired mansion comes with buckets of history - it stands on a site that has been occupied since the days of the Incas - but it's only in the past few years that paying guests have been able to stay here.

Art nouveau meets contemporary design - it's all about understated opulence. The bathrooms (above) are marble, the chandeliers are genuine antiques and watch your elbow as you pass the pre-Columbian ceramics; they're the real deal. Some of the rooms overlook a courtyard garden filled with tropical flowers and, beyond, the snow-capped Andean peaks. Slightly more expensive ones overlook Plaza de San Francisco (top and below).

It's one of the most attractive squares in the capital's Unesco-protected historic centre. During the day it's filled with buskers, artists and people just hanging out as pigeons swoop overhead and a few stray dogs get frisky. If your room doesn't overlook the square, you can enjoy the experience from the third-floor terrace (below) over sundowners. And there's plenty to see a short stroll from the hotel - across the square is the Jesuit church of La Compania and beside it a Franciscan monastery, which is partially open to the public. A few blocks away, the Museo de la Ciudad is worth a visit for the breadth of its exhibits, from pre-Incan times through to the late 1900s. The old centre is safe to walk around during the day - there are police to keep thieves at bay and offer tourists directions - but it's best to take a cab in the evening, even if it's just for a short ride back to the hotel.